The following post was published in October 2013. I’m re-posting it on this website since it illustrates how the arts can, even on a rainy day in London, bring enchantment to life.
I was thirteen when I decided to become an international jewel thief. Like many criminal decisions, mine was impulsive, and it involved a woman — Grace Kelly. The YMCA in my hometown used to show old movies. During an hour and a half in the dark, watching Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief, I discovered my future life. Grace Kelly and I would live in a chateau overlooking the Mediterranean. We would spend our days stealing jewels while engaging in witty banter. She would be my lover. We would be very sophisticated.

To Catch a Thief is still a great favorite of mine. My youngest daughter, Molly, who lives in London, arranged for us to see it at the British Film Institute during one of my visits. The BFI is not as stodgy as the name might suggest. It offers a full bar and great seating.
This particular visit was in October 2oi2. During my time with Molly and Liam, her husband, we had a wonderful arrangement. Each morning, Liam would bring me a cup of tea (so English!) before he and Molly headed off to work. The evening before, we’d make plans about where to meet for dinner. Until then, I was entirely free. Having all of London to explore is like being given the keys to The Infinite Possibility Machine, something Douglas Adams might have thought up.
You cannot get the measure of a city until you’ve walked it. When I travel, I spend a good deal of time just wandering, meeting people, and exploring. With that in mind, having decided to go to the Tate Modern and its environs, I took the Tube to Waterloo Bridge station and meandered my way along the Thames. Though it isn’t terribly far from Waterloo Bridge to the Tate, I intended to take my time getting there.
London’s weather is often perceived as predominantly rainy. Londoners will tell you that this is not true. Its dominant feature is changeability — sun at ten o’clock, rain at noon, sun at two, strong wind at five, and more rain at seven. Being a prudent man, I carried an umbrella with me when I left the flat, ready if the sky opened up. It wasn’t much of an umbrella, just something Liam had picked up at Ikea—small and green with large polka dots (he has a sense of whimsy, does Liam). When the time came, it proved hopelessly inadequate against the wind-driven torrent. After lengthening my trip to the Tate by meandering, I now tried to shorten it with a gallop. I arrived at the Tate panting and drenched. My mood was as foul as the weather.

Turbine Hall
Entrance to the Tate is free, and I strode in, rode the escalator up to the galleries, and began glaring at art. Nothing pleased. Nothing could. My mood was still sour, so I gave up the effort.
The Tate Modern is housed in a former power station. Turbine Hall, where the turbines were once located, is an immense room with concrete floors, a very high ceiling, and no furniture. People pass through it to get to the galleries. I sat down on the floor against a wall (many people do) and sketched the visitors who were coming and going. They were strongly backlit by a huge bank of windows. Watching them, I found it amazing how interesting their figures were with a silhouette and no details. So the day gave me its first gift — the sketches. They provided the visual ideas for a number of paintings and drawings I’ve made since then.
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London No. 1
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Adieu
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Chicago Rainy Night
After a time, I was approached by a young woman who asked if she could speak with me. She assured me she was not a panhandler but rather an art student working on a project. Her English was good, though slightly accented. Sometimes, it had an American inflection. We talked a bit. Her name was Sandra. She was from the Ukraine and was a first-year art student. I envied her. Away from home, studying and living in London, her whole life lay before her. She would probably never again feel as alive as she did now. And the American-accented English? She had relatives in the States and spent summers there. She asked me to give her some items of little value that she might put into her art project. She was creating an assemblage from objects gathered from people she met. I gave her a few things, including some U.S. coins I had in my pocket. She asked if she could return the quarter and instead take a dime and a penny, as they might work better visually. She was definitely an artist.
As we were talking, a man standing in the middle of the hall began to sing in a kind of melodic chant. There are crazies everywhere, I thought, and I tried to take no notice. But then another person started. And another. And another. Sandra leaned back against the wall next to me, and we watched. The lights dimmed and brightened, then dimmed again as more people, both men and women, joined in the chant. A flash mob, I wondered? After a few minutes, 50 or more people spaced at different parts of the hall were chanting together. Then they began, one by one, to fall silent and leave. Finally, only the man who’d begun was left. The lights darkened, and he, too, was gone. Sandra rose, thanking me, saying she needed to find others willing to participate in her project.
She was only gone a moment when a man in his 40s sat down next to me. He immediately began talking in a rapid stream of words about how he lived on a Narrow Boat, a very small Narrow Boat because it was only twenty-six feet long, and his room was six feet by twelve feet. He had many friends and felt rich and happy, despite having little money. Yes, he’d come to London to find success. He had owned things and lived well, but now all that was gone, no longer a burden, and he was happy. He had the things that counted. I tried to ask him questions, but he talked past them. Finally, he shook my hand, thanked me for listening, and walked away.
He joined other people streaming into the hall. More and more arrived, and they began walking about the hall, walking quickly but randomly, almost running into each other at times, then veering off at the last second. Little by little, they began to coalesce, forming units and walking in patterns. Several times, people walked right at me only to turn just short of a collision. The whole hall seemed alive with moving bodies. The lights rose and fell. The manic movement continued until their numbers began to dwindle. Like the chanters, they were soon gone.
Suddenly, a woman in her twenties dropped to her knees in front of me. Like the man before her, she launched into a breathless monologue about herself. When she was a girl, she used to visit her grandmother in Northumberland. Her grandmother lived in a large, drafty house. It was always cold, regardless of the time of year she visited. The worst of it was that the kids had to sleep in a room that was colder than the rest of the house. It was so cold that they called it “Siberia.” As one of the youngest children, she called it that too, though she didn’t know what Siberia was. The comforters were old, lumpy, and heavy, but that was okay because the mattresses were feather mattresses. The weight of the comforter pressed her small body into the softness of the mattress ao she felt warm and safe and wonderful. I begged her to tell me what was going on. She ignored my request several times, but as she rose to go, she whispered that it was a performance piece called “These Associations” by an artist named Tino Sehgal.
These Associations
I had been sitting on the concrete floor so long my butt was numb, and my legs were wobbly as I stood to go back into the gallery. I was feeling both at peace and exhilarated with what I’d experienced. From the gallery, I could hear the chanting begin again. This time, it was slower and more melodic. I went to one of the balconies that overlook Turbine Hall. The performers were moving about below me, the intricacies of their movements more apparent from above.
I often dismissed performance art before that day at the Tate. That is no longer the case. I was intrigued and moved by my experience, and have given considerable thought to the implications of my role as an unwitting participant in Sehgal’s performance piece.
When I met up with Molly and Liam, the day continued its enchantment. We dined at Wahaca, a restaurant housed in conjoined shipping containers, which offers South American-inspired cuisine. One of the joys of staying with them is that they know of such places. And Molly had chosen the evening’s entertainment shrewdly. To Catch a Thief worked its magic as it always does, though I must confess my life as a jewel thief never worked out. Long ago, I came to grips with the fact that Grace Kelly would never throw herself into the arms of a thirteen-year-old boy, no matter how much jewelry he stole.
PS: Sandra emailed me photos of her finished project. She did a fine job.
Copyright James Tucker